May 31, 2011
Some thoughts from captains about towing: [To read the whole story, click here.]
I would not tow unless circumstances made it unavoidable, and by circumstances I do not mean the owner’s whim.
Always adjust the tow length to accommodate your tail wake. Different speeds require different lengths. I ran a 30m yacht towing a 30-foot contender; 1,800rpm and 1,900rpm had a major difference in the shape of our wake. You have to adjust otherwise it’s an ugly thing to watch.
We were towing a much heavier tender until this year. We felt that the extra weight was causing main engine issues as well as a serious threat to crew/guest safety so sold it and reduced to a smaller and much lighter tender. Hardly knew it was there over a just completed three-week Bahama cruise.
Use a good rigger (we can all do this ourselves, but they do it all the time). Make sure the rig is long enough and that the vessel is sitting far enough back in the main vessel’s wake. Check bilge pumps are functioning prior to any tow, all hatches and gates are secured. I have a secondary line on all gates so they cannot come open in bad conditions. Always have water, food, foul wheather gear in the tender, in case of loss and a crew member is need to drive the tender. Always keep the keys in the boat when towing; it’s something less to take if it is lost.
Our sport fish tows a fishing boat that is much too large for us to carry. Using this "tender" as a day boat significantly reduces the work load at the end of the fishing day and having the mother ship at dock allows the guests to split up for the day.
At regular towing speeds, ensure the tow line is long enough so there is sag of 95 percent. This is the best method for reducing shock loading on the tender or yacht. Ensure the tender sits in the front of a wake trough with the bow up.
We have written policy and procedures, including deck crew wearing life jackets while making or breaking tow.
Replace shackles every year or when any wear shows. Same for line. Tow as close as possible to reduce yaw. Keep in mind the possibility of tow over-running the tow vessel when slowing down or in big following seas.
The most common issue: The tow line becoming tangled and or cut in the props.
Hooking and releasing are the most dangerous times, you need quality personal who you have schooled in this procedure. It is to dangerous to just allow anyone to try and help with this operation.
Safety, safety, safety. Most important is safety. Plan ahead, take your time, set up beforehand, do safety training, hands on by the captain overseeing everything, including safety.
Check with insurance company on size of tender they allow to be towed with your vessel and what areas are covered.
Make the tow rig as redundant as possible and be prepared to lose your tow. I hope I find your dingy out there, and I have. Yes, I called the nearest harbor department. You’re welcome.
Do not go cheap on the set up. Do it right and you will have no problems.
We tow about 100 or so feet astern, trailing her on the back side of the third wave.
Use a light to an aft bilge float switch to notify you of water shipping on. Use solar powered aux nav lights to keep battery available for bilge pumps. Drag 30 feet of chain behind the tow in a heavy following sea.
Prepare for the worst that could happen. Never put someone in the water to retrieve the tender. Always consider what weather the tender could handle if it were not being towed and only tow at or below that threshold.
Check the bilges are dry and that the bilge pumps run before beginning a passage. We avoid backing down on the tender, we manually pull it in and maintain slight headway. Annually, have an expert inspect the line and bridle. Touch wood, nothing too serious yet, and I have been towing for nine years.
Watch out for following seas, all things being the same that's when the tender will disappear. Stay at about 11-13 knots. Yes, you can tow faster, but it's only a matter of time before you lose it.
Despite all available and reasonable precautions, unpredictable sea conditions can cause your tow to be compromised. You may then have to make a decision whether to risk yourself/crew for a tender. Best advice is tow only on coastal voyages, and have a solid recognition with the owner that towing presents a potential loss scenario. It's not if you'll have an incident, rather when. Just like unexpectedly touching bottom.
It is a bad idea to tow any non-outboard or jet drive tender. Regular shaft drives can have a problem with the shaft seal overheating, causing sinking.
Always tow with full tanks in case something happens.
The most important thing is to make sure your hardware and lines are "overkill" or extra heavy duty. It is equally important to allow the tow line to stretch like a rubber band, using nylon or a combination of Spectra and nylon. This elasticity takes a lot of the shock off the hardware and the tender itself. Using all Spectra line, while easier to handle, puts additional strain on all of the towing components. The best way to find out what your tender is going through is to go for a ride in it for 15 or 20 minutes while under way. I always attach a 30-foot line to the stern of the tender. That way if the tender ever does come unattached, whoever gets to jump in for the "rescue" has something to grab onto.
Don’t get complacent if things have been going well for a long time. Have a good plan in place and good communication between crew for getting ready for a tow and ending one. Side doors on tenders have come open and sunk them. Be careful if this applies. All-round lights run batteries down. Get a dedicated, self-sustaining towing light.
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